But it’s not only about quality, it’s about not betraying the trust diners put into chefs to make sustainable decisions when it comes to sourcing ingredients. With input from experts, we examine how regenerative agriculture is an opportunity for us to reshape the future of food in South Africa.
What is regenerative agriculture?
Regenerative agriculture is an approach to farming that actively works to restore and improve the land. Unlike conventional farming, which often relies on synthetic fertilisers, pesticides, and growing the same crop on the same piece of land each year, regenerative practices focus on nurturing ecosystems, building healthy soil and fostering biodiversity. “Regenerative agriculture is a broad, undefined method of farming, which aims to heal ecosystems while producing food and fibre,” explains Andrew Ardington from the Regenerative Agriculture Association of Southern Africa. “At its heart is soil, and more specifically soil health.”
In contrast, conventional farming practices do not prioritise soil health. “Conventional or industrial farming does not view soil as a living entity that needs to be nurtured. It also doesn’t view soil as a source of nutrition or crop protection. It is largely viewed as a medium for holding the plants and water, while synthetic fertiliser provides the nutrients, and chemicals provide the protection,” explains Andrew.
Kobus Pienaar, Technical Manager Regenerative Agriculture at Woolworths, highlights the difference between the two practices further: “The most important difference is that conventional farming focuses on maximising production and short-term profit at all costs, whereas regenerative agriculture seeks to ‘repair’ the damage caused by conventional farming, benefiting both the environment and people.”
Soil health’s connection with food quality
The link between healthy soil and the quality of the crops grown in it is clear. Healthy soil is teeming with beneficial microorganisms, fungi, and nutrients that support plant growth and enable crops to flourish. When soil is well-maintained through regenerative practices, it is more capable of holding water, absorbing carbon, and supporting biodiversity – all factors that contribute to the overall health of the food produced.
“Nutrient-rich, biologically diverse soils, in most cases, lead to healthier, more nutritious, and better-tasting food. The methods used to cultivate soil, whether regenerative or conventional, directly impact the quality of the food produced,” explains Kobus.
Chefs around South Africa have started to take a keen interest in regenerative agriculture when it comes to choosing suppliers and understand that crops grown in this way are superior to ones that aren’t. “Produce grown without chemical intervention often bears the signs of nature – imperfections, blemishes, and irregularities that the commercial market has conditioned people to reject,” says Daniela Gutstadt, executive chef at Culinary Table. “Many regenerative farmers work on a small scale, growing seasonally and using succession planting to minimise waste. The quality of their produce isn’t always evident at first glance, but it’s unmistakable in its taste, aroma, and freshness. We value this direct-from-source quality far more than produce engineered for uniformity and long-distance transport. The shorter the journey from soil to plate, the better the ingredient.”
But the focus is not just on taste, healthy soil leads to more healthy food. “Without healthy soil and with the use of synthetic fertiliser, plants are unable to develop the phytonutrients that they should, and this means that animals (including humans) do not get what they need from their food,” explains Andrew. “By healing soils and bringing back functional plant-soil ecosystems, we can get everything that we need from our food.”
Currently, the UN estimates that 40% of the world’s soil is degraded, but Andrew fears it may be worse than that. “I think that [percentage] is a significant under estimation. Soil does not have to be bare and eroding in order for it to be degraded. The ecological functioning of soil is critical to keeping the planet habitable, and if the soil in an orchard is only functioning at 50% of its capacity, then that soil is degraded. As a species we need to be prioritising functional soils… We are not.”
“I have the utmost respect for farmers – it’s incredibly tough work,” says Daniela. “Over the years, I’ve had the privilege of meeting, visiting, and collaborating with farmers who are not only skilled but also deeply resilient and innovative. Regenerative farming requires an understanding of natural cycles – integrating livestock to improve soil health, managing crop rotations to prevent depletion, and adapting to ever-changing conditions. The real benefit of these relationships is the connection we build – understanding their challenges and working alongside them rather than just being another buyer. We provide a consistent demand for their produce, and in turn, we gain access to ingredients of unparalleled quality, grown with care and purpose.”
Transforming farming in South Africa
Retailers are jumping on board the regenerative train. “For Woolworths, adopting and promoting regenerative agriculture practices amongst its suppliers isn’t just an environmentally conscious choice – it’s a strategic move that aligns with our values and changing consumer preferences, strengthens supply chain resilience, and promotes long-term business sustainability,” explains Kobus. “By prioritising regenerative agriculture, Woolworths can offer high-quality, sustainably sourced products, enhance our brand image, and contribute to a more resilient and ethical food system. In the context of the global food system, it is just the right thing to do.”
To ensure its suppliers are using regenerative practices, Woolworths has developed its Farming for the Future programme. “We developed our Farming for the Future programme in the early 2000s and officially launched it in 2009. The programme evaluates each farm’s decision-making process in areas such as soil management, water management, biodiversity, carbon and water footprints, and integrated pest and weed management, recognising that every farm is unique. Based on this assessment, we create an action plan, which is reviewed and signed off by the supplier, outlining the steps to be taken for continuous improvement year after year. The assessments are done by a third-party independent assessor and Woolworths covers the costs of the assessments,” says Kobus.
The future of regenerative agriculture in South Africa
Kobus, Andrew and Daniela have high hopes for the future of regenerative agriculture in the country. “In the future, [it] could transform the agricultural sector into one that is not only productive and profitable but also sustainable and resilient. By building healthy soils, improving biodiversity, and reducing the environmental impact of farming, regenerative practices have the potential to contribute to a more secure and sustainable food system for South Africa. The hope is that this movement will grow and become a key part of both national policy and everyday farming practices across the country,” says Kobus.
“The food landscape is constantly evolving – some innovations are borrowed from abroad, while others emerge from within. What I’d most like to see is a shift in how people connect to their food sources and communities. This doesn’t mean abandoning imported products altogether, but rather approaching consumption with more mindfulness. Eating seasonally, supporting local producers, and understanding the origins of our food should be the norm, not the exception,” says Daniela.
“There needs to be an investment in primary agriculture to transition it to a system that makes our soils give us everything we need,” says Andrew. “Right now, people around the world seem to think that correcting this market failure is the farmers’ problem. Those at the bottom of the pyramid seldom get to change the pyramid. Without external investment in primary agriculture and a change in view from farmers being seen as the problem rather than the solution, this will not happen. I hope to see a time when we realise these things and that better farming is not just for the fringes but mainstream.”
